Atlas Code 100 Track Switch Hex Nut Dimensions

1. Hi,

   I'm new to the hobby and am planning my first layout. I'm confused about the difference between the Atlas HO Scale #4 and #6 turn outs, are they different in that the radius of the curve is larger on the #6? I would like to make my layout with a minimum curve radius of 22" so I want to be sure to purchase the correct turn out. Also does the Customline series have the simpler electrical connections, meaning the rail polarities do not change depending on switch position? I'm at the very beginning of the model railroading learning curve so the idea of isolators, polarity switching and the other voodoo is over my head right now. I'd like to give my layout some pizzazz while adhering to the K.I.S.S. philosophy.

   I appreciate any info you can share!

2. Do yourself a favor and download a track planning program called Anyrail. The free evaluation version allows you to play around with up to 50 pieces of track. It has Atlas code 83 and lots of other tracks in many different scales. Atlas makes turnouts that match their 18 & 22 inch radius sections. They also make a #4 with a diverging route that is straight, as well as a #6 & #8. If you play around with the different pieces in the Anyrail software, you'll get the idea.

3. Thanks. I will try it. I downloaded XTrkCAD and have been getting the hang of using it, but it doesn't have a library of any specific track in it.

4. Hi Steve -

   XTrackCAD comes with dozens of track libraries, including Atlas Code 83 Customline. You need to set the XTrackCAD scale to HO and then load the atl83ho.xtp Parameter file.

   Below are the Customline #4 and #6 turnouts as rendered in XTrackCAD.

   - Jeff

   

5. The #s 4, 5 6 etc refer to the angle the diverging track leaves the straight track. A #4 4 switch leaves the straight track one unit for every four units. A #5 & 6 are figured the same way.

6. Let me suggest SCARM ( Simple Computer Aided Railroad Modeling ( I think it is )). Totally free, has lots of different track manufactures built in. Pretty easy to learn. I used some video tutorials on youtub that gave me the basics. SCARM's Atlas code 83 library does include the custom-line turnouts.

   Basically an Atlas #6 customline = 22" ( #4=18", #8=24" )

   As for your polarity question, I found this wiki link helpful:
   http://www.dccwiki.com/Turnout

7. HI, Aside from switch numbers 4,6,8,12 I will set you straight about Atlas switches (turnouts); polarity, conductance. There are basically 2 different kinds of switches; All Live, and, Power Routing. Atlas are All-Live. The frog is the small triangular piece where inner rails coming from the 2 track end of the switch converge and criss cross allowing the inside train wheels to go through it via the slots in it called the 'flange way'. The wheel rides atop the frog as the wheel flanges go through the flange way in the frog. The type of frog a switch has determines which of the 2 types it is. The fog on Atlases is cold. It alone has no current running through it. And though there is usually a black coating on them, they are metal. Sand off the black tint. OK, With Atlas you do not have to wire them up to anything. The cold/dead frog is short enough (about .75") that most locos won't stall on it. And since there is no current in the frog you basically have no wiring to do (until later on if you have any type of reversing loop in the track plan. But don't worry. It's something we all had to learn when the problem came up.). I have mostly Atlas Customline code 83 (rail is a realistic height of 83 thousandths of an inch tall (If you are in HO you definitely want 83, not code 100. ). Power routing switches have the frog live at all times. The polarity of its frog goes from + to - depending on which way the movable rails of the switch, called the points, are thrown. This has advantages and disadvantages. Since frog is powered (not isolated as is All Live) There is little to no chance of a stall out. BUT a Power Routing switch depends on the points moving securely against the inner or outer rail to obtain power/continuity. If you figure in a curved switch in your plan, the only available curved T.O. are Power Routing such as Walthers, Lambert/Shinohara ( all same builder in Japan but too hard to explain here). You can freely intermix the 2 types of T.O.s. I really Like Atlas switches because they operate pretty care free (if installed on layout properly) and because they look most like US RR switches. Lots of folks are buying Peco which work nice too, but I think they are a tad stubby as they are British prototype. There's allot here and the whole story is not complete. But for now you'll get to understand the 2 type of switches there are, electronically....Welcome aboard Tboard and the great hobby of MRRing. Mark

8. Thanks, Jeff! Umm, how do I load the parameter file? Is it included with XTrkCAD or do I need to go get it from somewhere? I have a layout drawn up. The turnouts are not correct since I have loaded the parameters, but I think it is something to start with. I'll work with the program some more and see if I can improve. I'll start a new thread and put up a jpg of the track plan for critique.

10. Thanks, Mark! I am looking into the Digitrax Empire Builder DCC system and then use an auto reverser on my reversing loop. I don't think I want live frogs (do I?) I want powering the layout to be simple and I don't want to get in over my head. I have a pretty good knowledge of how electrical things work but I want to keep the polarity issues very basic.

11. Not correct. PECO Code 83 is a much more realistic US prototype-style numbered turnout, which includes a very useful #7 curved turnout. These are available in either Insulfrog or Electrofrog. (and either works with DCC). Not many people would say that Atlas look "the most" like US railroad turnouts. Most people find Walthers, MicroEngineering, and the new PECO Code 83 to be much more realistic in appearance than Atlas parts, but to each his own.Many folks wire the frog directly, so that they are not dependent on point rail contact.

12. This is not nearly as daunting as some folks make out. Live frogs are great with many steam engines and short-wheelbase diesels. And wiring them with DCC is often just a matter of more gaps and feeders, not an either/or choice.

    New products such as the Frog Juicer make wiring live frogs very simple.

    Bottom line, live frogs or insulated frogs work fine with DCC.

13. That's not correct. The dimensions are more complicated than a simple curve of a given radius. If those are the dimensions of the parts in SCARM, the program's templates are off.

14. You don't want live frogs IF you are using all Atlas (hopefully code 83. c100; don't go there !) and none of your engines stall over them. You see, the stall is caused by the particular loco's length. Usually i'ts the little 4 wheel type diesel switchers, and or small steam 'yard goats' [say, 6 drivers and no pilot [cow catcher] or [pony] trailing wheels, IE an 0-6-0 . The short wheel base will land one too many pickup wheels on too many insulators (4 plastic gaps at frog ends and other dead areas. In this case if you MUST run the engine which stalls you'll need to power the frog which ,when correctly installed flips the polarity in it when the switch points are thrown to the route engine/train is taking. Look into HEX FROG JUICER which will do this for you, 6 seperate frogs which each unit. OR $5 each, Caboose Industries powered ground throws. There is one teensy weensy peice which clicks into place on them which holds this bronze contact bar in place. It's a matter of great eye sight, steady fingers and that it goes in a particular way which you have to be ultra correct here. The thing has 3 prongs which need a 1/2" hole drilled near switch that they go though to under the plywood and 3 wires go up to 2 rails and center prong wire to frog. When you throw the points [moving rails] the ground-throw flips the frog polarity at same time via this little bronze part.......It's easy after a few.. I particularly like manually throwing switches. But you have to be careful when reaching across things to get to it. I built my present layout with this in mind from day 1 planning. I made sure all TOs were reachable. Altlas also has their own switch motors which are extremely out of scale but are smaller and lower than they used to be and connect to next to the switch . If I ever used these I'd find a way to disguise them will glued ballast and or a freight platform, bushes... The only commercially available curved TOs are Shinohara and they come 'power routing' only ..Good luck with all you decide.

    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 20, 2014

15. Notice the word I used..." Basically ". I knew what the answer the OP was looking for, as I had the same question not long ago.

    The OP wanted to know:

    Am I wrong telling him the #6 is the closest to a 22" radi, more so than either the #4 or #8? Because the way I read it, that's the answer he was looking for.

16. In a word, yes. The Atlas CustomLine #4 is actually a #4 1/2, so the substitution radius (the roughly equivalent curve it would replace) is something over 30" radius. The tightest point through the #4 1/2 is roughly equivalent to about 21"-22" radius. So the Atlas CustomLine #4 is a good match to 22" radius curves.

    If space is not an issue, #6s are fine, too, of course. And they should be used for crossovers, since CustomLine #4s will likely be too sharp.

    Folks who are new to model railroading may not understand the difference between toy-train turnouts like the SnapSwitch where the diverging leg is a true curve and regular turnouts, so I think it helps to be clear. Others may disagree.

17. Not correct, as I pointed out earlier in this very thread. The PECO Code 83 curved turnout works very well and is available in power-routing and non-power-routing versions.

18. thanks Byron Henderson for noting the misinformation
    it is really good to offer persons new to MR'ing accurate and factual information
    you have made this thread that very thing
    appreciation for your professionalism and willingness to take the time to post as you have
    sincerely
    Gary

19. as for software and accuracy for sectional track including turnouts and crossings and the like
    I know for one that AnyRail is spot on and provides a very high degree of accuracy
    it is even "more" accurate than the information provided by manufacturers
    having painstakingly taken each piece of track and measuring its geometry and spatial characteristics
    the owner/developer of the software is excellent to work with
    the cost is affordable
    and what it is able to do (in 2D) is amazingly helpful!
    while Xcad might be just as accurate (I do not know as I do not use it) the learning curve for AnyRail
    is accessible and not as daunting as the cad software
    fwiw....
    sincerely
    Gary

20. Thanks, Gary. I have thought about buying Anyrail and I have downloaded and tried the free demo, but I'm now getting the hang of XTrkCAD and the cost (free) is nice. As previously suggested, I have loaded in the Atlas and Walthers track and now have access to those catalogs and I believe my layout attempts are far more accurate. As to how accurate, I guess I need to have some bench work in place to find out. That's coming this spring-summer.

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Atlas Code 100 Track Switch Hex Nut Dimensions

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